The Best Alternatives to Box Hedging in the UK

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For generations, box (Buxus) has been the go-to plant for formal hedging, topiary, and elegant garden edging in the UK. Its small, dense, evergreen leaves, willingness to be clipped into almost any shape, and tolerance of shade made it the unrivalled king of formal garden design.

But the twin threats of box tree caterpillar and box blight have changed the equation dramatically. Many gardeners — after years of battling infestations and fungal outbreaks — are asking a very reasonable question: is it time to replace my box with something that does not attract these problems?

The answer depends on your situation and your tolerance for ongoing management. Box can still be maintained successfully with regular treatment (see our complete Treatment Guide), but if you prefer a lower-maintenance option, or if your box is too severely damaged to recover, there are excellent alternatives available. The Royal Horticultural Society has been running trials at RHS Garden Wisley to evaluate the best substitutes, and we have drawn on their findings and our own experience to compile this guide.

Comparison Table: Box Alternatives at a Glance

1. Ilex crenata (Japanese Holly) — Our Top Recommendation

If you want a plant that looks, feels, and behaves almost identically to box, Ilex crenata is the answer. Its small, dark green, glossy leaves are remarkably similar to Buxus in both size and colour. It clips into tight, formal shapes with the same precision as box, making it suitable for low hedges, edging, topiary balls, and even intricate topiary shapes.

Ilex crenata is fully hardy throughout the UK, tolerates both sun and partial shade, and grows well in most soil types. It is completely unaffected by box tree caterpillar (it is a holly, not a box, so the caterpillars will not touch it) and is also resistant to box blight.

The main drawback is growth rate — it is slightly slower than box, particularly in its first couple of years after planting. Expect to wait 3-5 years for a newly planted hedge to fill out to a similar density as established box. Once established, however, it is a superb long-term replacement.

• Best varieties: Ilex crenata 'Dark Green' (most similar to box), Ilex crenata 'Convexa' (slightly convex leaves, very dense), Ilex crenata 'Glory Gem' (compact and slow-growing, ideal for small hedges).

• Best for: Formal low hedging, edging, topiary, parterres — any application where you would use box.

• Spacing: Plant at 20-30 cm intervals for a low hedge. Allow 3-5 years to fill out.

2. Lonicera nitida (Wilson's Honeysuckle)

Lonicera nitida is one of the fastest-growing box alternatives, which makes it a popular choice for gardeners who want a hedge in a hurry. Its tiny, rounded, evergreen leaves create a dense hedge that can be clipped into formal shapes, though the overall effect is slightly softer and less crisp than box or Ilex crenata.

The speed of growth is both its greatest advantage and its biggest drawback. While you will have a presentable hedge within 1-2 years of planting, Lonicera nitida requires more frequent clipping than box to maintain a tidy shape — typically 3-4 times per year compared to 1-2 times for box. If left unclipped for too long, it can become straggly and lose its formal appearance.

It is fully hardy, tolerates most soils and positions including deep shade, and is completely resistant to box tree caterpillar and box blight.

• Best varieties: Lonicera nitida 'Maigruen' (tight, compact habit), Lonicera nitida 'Elegant' (smaller leaves, more formal appearance).

• Best for: Larger hedges where a slightly informal look is acceptable, or where speed of establishment is the priority.

• Spacing: Plant at 20-30 cm intervals. Expect a usable hedge within 18 months to 2 years.

3. Taxus baccata (English Yew)

Yew is the traditional prestige hedging plant of the British Isles, used in stately homes and formal gardens for centuries. While it has a very different character to box — darker, denser, and more architectural — it is an outstanding choice for formal hedging of any height from 30 cm edging to 3-metre boundaries.

Yew clips to perfection, is extraordinarily long-lived (centuries, not decades), is fully hardy throughout the UK, and is completely immune to box tree caterpillar and box blight. It tolerates full sun and deep shade equally well.

The main drawback is growth rate. Yew is famously slow, gaining approximately 15-30 cm per year. A new yew hedge may take 5-8 years to reach a usable height and density. For this reason, it is often sold as larger, more established plants at a higher price point. The other consideration is toxicity — all parts of yew are poisonous to humans and animals (including horses and cattle), so it is not suitable for gardens where livestock graze or where young children are unsupervised.

• Best for: Formal hedging of any height, particularly where longevity and a classic English garden aesthetic are valued.

• Spacing: Plant at 30-45 cm intervals for a hedge. Allow 5-8 years for a mature, dense hedge.

4. Pittosporum tobira 'Nanum'

Pittosporum tobira 'Nanum' is a compact, dome-shaped evergreen with attractive glossy, rounded leaves that are slightly larger than box. It produces small, sweetly fragrant white flowers in spring, which is a bonus that box never provides.

It clips well into formal shapes and makes an excellent replacement for box balls and low hedges. It is fully resistant to box tree caterpillar and box blight.

The limitation is hardiness. Pittosporum tobira is reliably hardy to approximately -10°C, which makes it suitable for the milder areas of the UK (southern England, sheltered urban gardens, coastal areas) but a risk in colder, more exposed northern or inland locations. In a severe winter, it may suffer die-back or be killed outright in frost pockets.

• Best for: Box ball replacements and low hedges in sheltered, milder gardens.

• Spacing: Plant at 30-40 cm intervals for hedging.

5. Euonymus japonicus 'Green Spire'

Euonymus japonicus 'Green Spire' has been specifically bred as a box replacement. It has small, glossy, dark green leaves and an upright, columnar habit that lends itself to clipping into formal hedges and shapes. It grows at a moderate pace and is hardy throughout most of the UK.

One important caveat: while Euonymus japonicus is generally resistant to box tree caterpillar, there are occasional reports of the caterpillars feeding on it under conditions of extreme food scarcity (when all nearby box has already been stripped). In practice, this is rare, but it is worth noting that it is not as guaranteed a safe harbour as Ilex crenata or yew.

• Best for: Formal hedging where box-like appearance and moderate growth rate are desired.

• Spacing: Plant at 25-35 cm intervals.

6. Osmanthus x burkwoodii

Osmanthus x burkwoodii is a beautiful evergreen shrub with dark, leathery leaves and clusters of highly fragrant white flowers in April-May. While its leaves are larger than box (roughly 3-5 cm versus box's 1-2 cm), it forms a dense, attractive hedge that clips well and provides year-round structure.

It is fully hardy, tolerates sun and partial shade, grows at a moderate pace, and is completely immune to both box tree caterpillar and box blight. The spring fragrance is exceptional and a genuine garden bonus.

It is perhaps best suited to medium-height hedges (60 cm to 1.5 metres) rather than very low edging, where its larger leaf size is less appropriate.

• Best for: Medium hedges where fragrance and flowers are valued alongside formal structure.

• Spacing: Plant at 40-60 cm intervals.

How to Transition from Box to an Alternative

If you have decided to replace your box with one of these alternatives, here is a practical approach:

• Gradual replacement: If your box hedge is still alive but struggling, you can plant the alternative behind or alongside the existing box, allowing it to establish while the box provides temporary screening. Once the new plants are established (2-3 years for most species), remove the remaining box.

• Complete replacement: If your box is dead or beyond recovery, remove it entirely, improve the soil with compost, and plant the new hedge. This is the quicker approach but means a gap in your garden's structure while the new plants grow.

• Staggered approach: In a large garden, replace one section at a time rather than everything at once. This spreads the cost and effort and allows you to assess how the new plant performs in your specific conditions before committing fully.

Should I Replace or Keep Treating My Box?

This is ultimately a personal decision. Here are the key factors to consider:

• Keep your box if: You love the look and feel of real box, you are willing to monitor and treat 2-3 times per year (30-60 minutes per session), the plants are still healthy or recovering, and you find the management routine manageable.

• Replace with an alternative if: Your box is severely damaged or dead, you are tired of the constant management effort, the cost of annual treatment products exceeds the cost of replacement plants, or you simply want a lower-maintenance garden.

Many gardeners find a middle ground: they keep their most prized box specimens (a beloved topiary piece, for example) under active management while replacing less prominent hedging with Ilex crenata or another alternative.

Frequently asked questions